Where as the 2002 vintage in Australia was universally defined by one factor, cool temperatures, 2003 was a more complex matter where four factors converged during vintage: nationwide drought; extreme heat in some regions; widespread rains in February; and low fruitfulness in cool-climate areas.

Southcorp Executive General Manager Viticulture and Grape Resources, Stuart McNab reported, "The scene for the 2003 vintage in cool-climate regions, was set as far back as November and December 2001 when the bunches that would eventually become fruit in 2003 were being formed. Unusually cool temperatures at the time of bud formation resulted in smaller bunch numbers and sizes forming and despite adjustments to pruning in 2002, we did see lower yields as a result in the cool-climate regions in 2003."

There were many varied conditions across the four seasons of the vintage year starting with a dry winter followed by a warm and clear spring. In contrast to the previous year, the 2003 growing season in southern Australia was generally regarded as warm and although the total heat from September to April was only up 3% on long-term averages, there were periods of extreme heat throughout the early summer months.

Single day rainfalls at the end of January, February and March provided welcome relief to the vines, maintaining excellent vine leaf canopies and function, contributing to full-flavour profiles and ripeness.

February and March were cooler than normal, leading to slower ripening fruit with good flavour development and fresh acid retention. April was warmer than usual, providing an excellent ripening finish for the reds.

Significant rainfall in cool-climate regions of southeastern Australia close to harvest caused some berry splitting and raised the potential for disease. However the cool, dry conditions that followed minimised disease and prevented any damage to quality.

Yields varied markedly from region to region and total intake was 226,500 tonnes, a decrease of 10% on 2002. Red grape varieties accounted for 132,500 tonnes (down 5% on 2002) and white grape varieties accounted for 94,000 tonnes (down 17% on 2002).

Stuart said, "While the vintage crush was lower than last year, it was in line with our expectations, delivering sufficient volume to cover expected grape requirements for both red and white wines."

Looking back over the vintage Stuart said, "This year saw an enormous focus on enhancing vineyard performance and yields whilst improving viticultural impact. Harvesting systems are being continuously improved to deliver cleaner fruit of more consistent quality. Initiatives include detailed mapping of vineyards for vine vigour and yield, better maturity testing and batching of fruit. Irrigation application and scheduling continue to improve. This season has seen the conversion of a massive 425 hectares in Coonawarra to drip irrigation, an initiative that will provide better precision, as well as more concise and more environmentally responsible water use."

Executive General Manager Winemaking, Peter Taylor said, "The balance of varieties to meet Southcorp’s grape requirements was excellent with overall fruit quality being good despite the combination of drought, extreme heat and the widespread rains in February."

Peter said, "Throughout much of South Australia and Victoria, Shiraz is the outstanding red variety with a good combination of brightness of fruit and concentration. Cabernet from Coonawarra is very strong although yields are reduced. The versatile and resilient Chardonnay again shined in 2003 with full-flavours and good acid balance being reported across the country. This will result in excellent Chardonnay across the portfolio from Lindemans Bin 65 Chardonnay right through to Penfolds Yattarna Chardonnay. With the aromatic whites, Sauvignon Blanc volumes were very low although excellent Riesling is reported from the Eden Valley and Drumborg."

Penfolds Chief Winemaker, Peter Gago said, "Across South Australia, Shiraz is the pick of the red varieties with ripe, fruit flavours, balanced tannins and clear varietal character." McLaren Vale experienced a high quality vintage producing wines with spicy, fruit flavours and velvety tannins, promising much for the full-bodied Rosemount red wines. Wynns Coonawarra Estate Winemaker, Sue Hodder said, "Coonawarra Cabernet is some of the best I have seen in a long time although yields are significantly reduced, both by planned vineyard adjustments and the impact of weather conditions."

Lindemans Winemaker, Wayne Falkenberg, said the Sunraysia, Riverland and Riverina regions produced excellent results for white varieties despite the heat. He said, "The concentrated flavours in Chardonnay promise a great follow up on the multi award winning 2002 Lindemans Bin 65 Chardonnay. Although the red varieties were down in volume the quality is consistent to long-term averages."

Rosemount Winemaker, Andrew Koerner reported, "Reduced yields caused by the drought had a positive effect in the Hunter Valley, helping to concentrate flavours and enable the fruit to ripen without stressing the vines. Hunter Valley Chardonnay is outstanding with the mature vines and moisture retaining soils of the Roxburgh vineyard ensuring an excellent 2003 Rosemount Roxburgh Chardonnay. The Hill of Gold vineyard in Mudgee performed well with Chardonnay and Shiraz the highlights.

The 2003 vintage in Orange added concentration of flavour to the traditional elegance and structure, resulting in the best red wines ever seen in Orange.

Orange has always provided refined wines with seductive fruit flavours, however the 2003 vintage added concentration and structure to the mix, defining the potential of this region."

In the Yarra Valley 2003 is shaping up as a worthy successor to the stellar 2000 vintage for Coldstream Hills’ Cabernet and Merlot wines. Throughout central and western Victoria, Shiraz was again the standout variety with vineyards that had adequate irrigation resources delivering strong results. The Seppelt Glenlofty vineyard also provided excellent Chardonnay and the first crop of Marsanne and Roussanne.

Devil’s Lair Winemaker, Stuart Pym said, "Western Australia was less affected by the drought with good yields and excellent quality of both white and red varieties. Devil’s Lair Chardonnay will again be strong as will Cabernet Sauvignon."

South Australia

Magill Estate: Adelaide

• The unique micro-climate of the Penfolds Magill Estate produced strong results in 2003 despite the drought conditions.
• Fruit was hand harvested in small batches and kept separate throughout fermentation and post pressing into barrel.
• Fruit quality was above average with the 2003 Penfolds Magill Estate Shiraz possessing rich fruit and a liquorice earthiness.

The 2003 vintage served as a reminder of the unique micro-climate of the Penfolds Magill Estate vineyard. Despite the drought conditions and warm temperatures, the cooling gully winds, sloping site and unique aspect that results from being totally surrounded by residential housing allowed the deep rooted dry-grown old vines of the Magill Estate vineyard to thrive and produce to targeted yields. The crop was hand-picked over two days on the 26th and 27th of February.

Penfolds Chief Winemaker, Peter Gago reported, "The rain in mid-February was very welcome, serving to revitalise the vines and lift fruit character. The fruit was harvested block-by-block and kept separate throughout fermentation and post pressing into barrel. Fruit quality overall is above average with the best fruit coming from Block 3 and a portion of Block 2, situated in a core across the centre of the vineyard. Whilst this quality will ensure the 2003 Magill Estate Shiraz is outstanding I am optimistic that some parcels will reach Penfolds Grange as they did in 1996 and 1998.

The 2003 Penfolds Magill Estate Shiraz will be a very strong vintage, full-bodied and displaying rich fruit and a liquorice earthiness."

Adelaide Hills: Mount Lofty Ranges

• Cooler weather in mid-February that followed the rains provided good ripening conditions.
• Low yields and cool temperatures during ripening allowed the fruit to develop excellent flavours whilst retaining acidity.
• The cooler Piccadilly and Morialta areas produced refined Chardonnay fruit destined for the 2003 Penfolds Yattarna and Reserve Bin 03A Chardonnay.

The cool conditions in the spring of 2001 produced low fruitfulness that resulted in low bunch numbers and sizes for the 2003 vintage and this enabled the vines to develop excellent flavours, while retaining acidity, despite the warm and extremely dry conditions that followed throughout spring and summer.

Penfolds White Winemaker, Oliver Crawford reported, "A warm spring in 2002 with virtually no rain was followed by a hot December and January. Three inches (76mm) of rain in mid-February provided relief, revitalising the vines and putting them into good shape for harvest. The cooler weather following the rains provided good ripening conditions."

Vintage in the Adelaide Hills was very early and compressed, with most fruit coming into the winery within the two weeks from late March to early April.

Oliver Crawford also noted, "2003 was an excellent year for Adelaide Hills Chardonnay. The region that incorporates many diverse micro-climates and warmer areas produced richly flavoured wines with ripe flavours of honeydew, melon and guava. This fruit will form the backbone of the 2003 Penfolds Thomas Hyland Chardonnay and will provide an excellent follow up to the first two vintages."

The cooler areas of Piccadilly and Morialta produced refined fruit with citrus and pink apple flavours, excellent length and natural acidity. The high quality of this fruit ensures that the 2003 Penfolds Yattarna and Reserve Bin 03A will be sourced almost exclusively from these two areas.

Barossa Valley: Barossa

• Above average temperatures with low rainfall restricted yields.
• Dry weather after mid-February rains allowed the vineyards to recover quickly.
• A strong result for Shiraz with ripe fruit, balanced tannins and clear varietal character.

The Barossa Valley endured the same drought conditions as most of the country with a very cool and dry winter followed by similar weather in spring. Regional Vineyard Manager, Nick Gill noted, "Whilst fruit set was average the preceding cool spring prior to the 2002 vintage resulted in fruitfulness for 2003 being low and bunch weights were well under average." The Barossa vineyards, the majority dry-grown, benefited from small amounts of supplementary water during summer although yields were low, assisting the vines in ripening without stress.

Vintage started somewhat early on the 17th of February. The very dry conditions proved to be a blessing in some ways when the Barossa received three inches (76mm) of rain in mid-February. The rain was followed by dry, windy conditions that combined with the dry weather before vintage to ensure that the vineyards recovered quickly, retaining high baumes throughout.

Penfolds Senior Red Winemaker, Steve Lienert reported, "Shiraz from well-managed vineyards that ripened earlier is outstanding, with ripe, fruit flavours, balanced tannins and clear varietal character.

Whilst the more robust Penfolds Grange and Bin 389 will see a strong continuation of their proud legacy in 2003, I was just as excited by the quality of balanced, vibrant fruit available for the fruit driven RWT, St. Henri and Bin 28 Kalimna Shiraz."

Steve said that Cabernet Sauvignon is attractive, although yields were low, and a quality parcel of ripe Grenache will be a key component of 2003 Penfolds Bin 138 Shiraz Grenache Mourvèdre.

Seppelt Fortified Winemaker, James Godfrey, was excited by the colour, intensity and balanced tannins of the Shiraz component destined for Seppelt DP 90 Rare Tawny. James was also pleased with the quality of Mourvèdre, identified as a key blending component in fortified wines.

Clare Valley: Mount Lofty Ranges

• A dry winter followed by conditions conducive to a good vintage.
• Balanced vines weathered the conditions well before much needed February rains invigorated the canopies.
• Riesling has rich citrus flavours and crisp acidity.

Clare Valley experienced a long, dry winter with bud burst for Riesling occurring in early spring. A mild spring restrained canopy growth before near perfect climatic conditions during flowering ensured a healthy fruit set. The hot, dry days of late December and early January were balanced by cool evenings that assisted the fruit in retaining acidity.

The rains in early February were a blessing, providing much needed invigoration of the canopies and vines. The rain was followed by mild and even conditions that, coupled with the long early autumn, provided ideal ripening conditions throughout late February and March and into vintage.

Leo Buring Winemaker, Matthew Pick reported, "The 2003 Leo Buring Clare Valley Riesling displays rich, citrus flavours enmeshed with tingling natural acidity."

Penfolds Red Winemaker, Andrew Baldwin, is excited by the parcels of Clare Valley Shiraz that will provide fragrant, perfumed components to the Penfolds St. Henri and Thomas Hyland Shiraz wines.

Coonawarra: Limestone Coast

• Coonawarra enjoyed well-timed rainfall and moderate temperatures.
• An extended ripening period promoted flavour development and acid retention.
• Cool conditions very early in the vintage meant that yields were reduced.

Coonawarra experienced an excellent vintage in 2003, receiving rainfall at the right time during the growing season and benefiting from moderate temperatures. In contrast to many other regions, Coonawarra had a 5% higher rainfall than last year, much of it occurring on single days in the last weeks of January, February and March. Each rainfall invigorated the vines and maintained canopy health. Mild temperatures throughout February and March allowed the fruit to develop good flavours whilst retaining acid before warmer temperatures in the critical ripening month of April ensured a successful vintage.

Regional Vineyard Manager, Allen Jenkins reported, "The coldest temperatures for over 30 years in November and December of 2001 when buds are formed for the following season meant that bunch numbers and size were destined to be low for the 2003 vintage. During pruning the vineyard team deliberately increased the number of buds on the vines but the small bunches meant that yields were still reduced."

Yields were certainly up from the 2002 vintage and the consistent conditions in the 2003 vintage meant that ripening was very even, with harvest starting on time and finishing in company vineyards by the 28th of April.

Wynns Coonawarra Estate Winemaker, Sue Hodder, is excited about the fine tannins and fruit concentration of the Cabernet Sauvignon, describing 2003 as, "one of the best in a long time." An ongoing programme of rejuvenating some of the older vineyards, where vines are in excess of 30 years of age, provided dividends producing fruit with balanced, intense flavours. Sue is confident that there will be a fragrant, richly flavoured John Riddoch from 2003.

Sue Hodder also said, "The Shiraz is also very good with bright, vibrant colours and well-defined black pepper and the best Chardonnay, which ripened early, has attractive refined stone fruit characters.

It’s exciting to see all the hard work in the vineyards starting to pay off, with structured, richly textured fruit destined to produce an outstanding Wynns Coonawarra Estate ‘Black Label’ Cabernet in 2003."

Yields were again low in the Lindemans St. George Vineyard, however quality was high with excellent parcels of handpicked fruit in mid-April. Limestone Ridge Vineyard also provided strong results meaning that 2003 will be an exceptional vintage for the Lindemans Coonawarra Trio of Limestone Ridge, St. George Cabernet and Pyrus.

Rosemount’s ‘Cluny’ Block, planted in 1997, did very well, ripening early, and will provide an outstanding component for the Show Reserve Cabernet, complementing fruit from the traditional source, the 21 year old ‘Kirri Billi’ vineyard.

Eden Valley: Barossa

• Winter was dry and whilst flowering and fruit set were even, crops were reduced.
• Lower temperatures and cool nights ensured subtle fruit flavours and crisp acidity.
• The Leo Buring Leonay Riesling will be Eden Valley sourced this year.

Whilst some parts of the Eden Valley experienced higher than normal temperatures during the 2003 vintage, the traditionally cool upper Eden Valley was less affected by the warm conditions. Winter was dry, similar to the nearby Clare Valley, which meant that although flowering and fruit set were even, the crops were reduced from previous years.

The lower temperatures and cool nights ensured the fruit developed an array of subtle fruit flavours with complex floral notes and crisp acidity. The vineyards were harvested according to individual ripeness in late March and early April and the fruit was delivered to the winery in small parcels.

Leo Buring Winemaker, Matthew Pick, reported that Eden Valley demanded to be the source for this year’s Leo Buring Leonay due to the sheer quality of fruit that showed, "refined lime and orange blossom flavours bound by a tight structure and defined by mineral acid backbone."

The quality of this fruit also bodes well for the Penfolds Reserve Eden Valley Riesling and Leo Buring Eden Valley Riesling.

Langhorne Creek: Fleurieu

• Early vintage rains had minimal effect with vines recovering quickly.
• A successful year for red wines with concentrated flavours and pronounced blocky tannins.

The Langhorne Creek area experienced similar conditions to its neighbour, McLaren Vale, throughout the 2003 vintage although the late February rains were less of a factor. The harvest itself began in fine conditions in the last week of February, which was slightly later than McLaren Vale.

Langhorne Creek in general enjoys deep rich soils that retained good moisture levels throughout the drought. This assisted the vines in generating substantial canopies which shielded the bunches from the summer sun.

Rosemount Winemaker, Charles Whish reported, "Yields in 2003 are lower than average but this has assisted the vines in producing the richly flavoured wines with red berry flavours and chocolate flavours coupled with the pronounced blocky tannins that Langhorne Creek is capable of in the best years.

This fruit will be a key component in Rosemount Diamond Label Shiraz as well as providing depth to wines such as Show Reserve Shiraz and Traditional."

McLaren Vale: Fleurieu

• Low yields due to cool temperatures assisted vines in weathering the drought.
• The vines maintained sugar levels following early vintage rains and ripened evenly.
• Chardonnay, Shiraz and Cabernet possess rich flavours and supple tannins.

McLaren Vale experienced the dry winter typical of the 2003 vintage, however mild temperatures throughout promoted a very early bud burst in Chardonnay before a cold snap in early spring delayed Shiraz. Fruitfulness was low due to the cool spring in 2001 but fruit set was even and flowering occurred early in good conditions. The low crop levels assisted the vines in remaining healthy despite the hot and dry summer.

The three inches (76mm) of rain on the 20th of February followed by a week of wet and misty weather caused some splitting of berries. Fortunately the rain also rejuvenated canopies and sugar concentrations remained high throughout. A dry Indian summer and windy conditions assisted the vines in recovering and preventing disease.

Vintage was earlier than normal, beginning in fine conditions in the second week in February and finishing on the 22nd of April. The vintage was also very compressed with 12,000 of the 19,000 tonnes being harvested in March. Rosemount Winemaker, Charles Whish reported, "There are strong parcels of Shiraz with balanced, ripe, spicy, fruit flavours and a velvety tannin structure. Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot were improved and careful tannin management, including low extraction, ensured varietally expressive wines with rich flavours and supple tannins.

Whilst yields were reduced, McLaren Vale experienced a high quality vintage producing wines with spicy, fruit flavours and velvety tannins, promising much for the full-bodied Rosemount red wines."

Other varieties saw variable results. Chardonnay was also strong with rich, melon, fruit flavours most apparent but the rain reduced Semillon yields. McLaren Vale Grenache will be a highlight from 2003 with ripe, expressive, raspberry flavours.

The low yields and moderate temperatures resulted in an excellent result for the Rosemount premium red wines from McLaren Vale including Balmoral Syrah, Show Reserve Shiraz, GSM and Traditional. These wines will be concentrated with intense flavours balanced by supple tannins. This fruit will also be a valuable component in full-bodied Penfolds wines such as Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz.

Padthaway: Limestone Coast

• Padthaway delivered another strong result in 2003.
  Exceptional Chardonnay and very strong Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon.
• Fruit ripened consistently, producing well-balanced varietally expressive wines.

Padthaway produced another strong result in 2003 justifying the region’s reputation as a very reliable premium viticultural area. Padthaway experienced the same early vintage weather as most other South Australian regions, with very dry conditions and a cool spring followed by a moderate summer. Padthaway, however, had little or no rain in March and April and this allowed the fruit to ripen consistently, producing well-balanced, varietally expressive wines.

Chardonnay was again exceptional, displaying a depth of ripe, tropical fruit flavours, refined acidity and very good fruit definition. The 2003 Rouge Homme Unwooded Chardonnay will benefit from the inclusion of a parcel of this fruit.

Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon were also strong in Padthaway this vintage, displaying attractive bright fruit characters, spice and rich, plum fruit flavours in a style halfway between the classic cool-climate Coonawarra style and the robust McLaren Vale wines. This fruit will be a key component of the Lindemans Reserve Label wines.

Riverland: Lower Murray

• A warm and dry vintage in 2003.
• Yields were low due to vintage conditions leading to concentrated flavours.
• White varieties are the standout, led by Chardonnay.

The Riverland region produced excellent results in 2003; a fine continuation from the stellar 2002 vintage, despite very different conditions. As in many other regions the low yields, caused partially by small bunch weights and partially by the drought, were the key to the high quality of fruit assisting the grapes in producing concentrated flavours. Whilst the temperatures during the day were warm, nights were cooler than average. These temperatures allowed the fruit to retain acidity, which was particularly crucial for the white wines.

Lindemans Winemaker, Wayne Falkenberg, was very pleased with the vintage. Wayne said, "The white wines have concentrated flavours and fine acid balance. Chardonnay is the standout with peach and mango flavours and excellent flavour length. There’s every reason to believe the 2003 Lindemans Bin 65 Chardonnay will be of the same high standard as the multi-trophy winning 2002."

Of the reds, Shiraz is the best performer with ripe fruit characters and varietal definition. Merlot quality is also high with attractive fruit character and rich flavours.

Robe: Limestone Coast

• Robe had rainfall 18% above average and an ideal ripening season.
• Yields were reduced due to small bunch size and numbers.
• Chardonnay and Shiraz will be an important cool-climate blending component.

The diversity of climatic conditions in Australia was emphasised by Robe in 2003. While most of Australia experienced low rainfall throughout the 2003 vintage, Robe enjoyed levels 18% above average and the warmest April temperatures in the south-east of South Australia.

Periodic rain through autumn revitalised vines and maintained canopy health, combining with the warm, ripening-period temperatures to provide an ideal run in to vintage.

Regional Vineyard Manager, Allen Jenkins reported, "Robe was planted in 1994 due to its potential as a cool-climate region with a more coastal aspect and consistent rainfall. The 2003 vintage confirmed the wisdom of this decision with strong results in both white and red varieties."

Refined aromatic Chardonnay was a highlight and will be a valuable component of the 2003 Penfolds Thomas Hyland Chardonnay. Shiraz was also strong with elegant floral aromas and vibrant fruit characters, likely destined for wines such as Penfolds Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz.

New South Wales

Mudgee: Central Ranges

• A dry winter and cool weather at flowering ensured low yields.
• Company vineyards harvested before the rains produced excellent fruit.
• The 2003 Rosemount Mountain Blue Shiraz Cabernet, picked on eve of the rain, is an outstanding continuation of this famous label.

2003 was the year when Rosemount’s investment in a 15km pipeline and pumping station really came to fruition. Access to plentiful water resources in Mudgee, and moderate temperatures throughout the growing season, enabled the Mudgee vineyards to thrive despite the drought.

Regional Vineyard Manager, Nigel Everingham said, "The dry winter followed by cool spring temperatures ensured that fruitfulness was lower across all varieties than in previous years. The low crops and excellent ripening conditions meant that vintage started in the first week of February, almost a month earlier than usual." He said the rains that fell mid--vintage in late February ultimately decided the success of the year for individual growers in Mudgee. "Healthy vines with reasonable crop levels ripened earliest and this allowed the well-maintained company vineyards such as the Hill of Gold vineyard to be harvested before the rains and floods devastated some low-lying vineyards in the area.

Our long standing policy to restrict yields to increase quality paid dividends in 2003, with the low-yielding company vineyards producing a richly flavoured, varietally expressive crop before the rains."

Rosemount Winemaker, Andrew Koerner reported, "Chardonnay and Shiraz are outstanding, with the Chardonnay fruit possessing intense, classic peach and nectarine flavours. Shiraz is probably the standout with concentrated earthy, spicy flavours". Cabernet Sauvignon volumes were down on previous vintages although fruit quality was high with typical ripe berry and mint characters.

The Rosemount Mountain Blue vineyard provided the greatest excitement of the vintage in more ways than one. The warnings of heavy rain led to an urgent decision to pick the night before harvest was originally planned and the crews were literally just finishing as the first drops fell. During the drought the deep root systems of the 45 year old vines harboured a reservoir that enabled the vines to thrive and the 2003 Rosemount Mountain Blue Shiraz Cabernet, packed with rich, berry flavours, is destined to be the highlight of the Mudgee vintage.

Hunter: Hunter Valley

• The drought conditions ensured low yields and concentrated flavours.
• The dry weather before and after the late February rain meant that the vines recovered quickly with no disease pressure.
• Rosemount Roxburgh vineyard was the standout, producing balanced, intensely flavoured fruit.

The upper Hunter Valley experienced the dry conditions that were common to many Australian winegrowing regions throughout the winter, spring and early summer of the 2003 vintage. Low crop levels, due to reduced bunch numbers and bunch sizes, meant that the vines in general were able to ripen their fruit without stress. Rosemount Winemaker, Andrew Koerner reported, "Whilst it lowered yields, the drought had a positive effect on quality in 2003 and we’ll see an increased concentration in the wines.

The drought conditions and absence of really hot weather meant that established vineyards, such as Roxburgh, maintained good soil moisture levels and thrived, producing well-balanced, intensely flavoured wines."

The rain that swept across Australia in mid to late February did fall in the Hunter Valley but the dry conditions before and after the rain meant that there was no disease pressure and the vines recovered quickly. With no further threat of rain the Regional Vineyard Manager, Sam Haynes, and his team were able to harvest the fruit at peak ripeness and baume levels. Vintage began almost two weeks earlier than normal, with the first Hunter Valley fruit entering the winery on the 14th of January.

The rich ‘Terra Rossa’ soils of the Rosemount Roxburgh vineyard enabled it to handle the dry conditions with ease, maintaining good soil moisture levels throughout the growing season. Whilst the season was extremely dry, temperatures remained moderate, assisting the mature vines in producing fruit that retained excellent acidity resulting in perfectly balanced wines. The 2003 Roxburgh Chardonnay will be a highlight with bright fruit and intense flavours and Rosemount Show Reserve Chardonnay will again also benefit from an outstanding Roxburgh component.

Orange: Central Ranges

• The highlight of Rosemount’s vintage, the 2003 Orange red wines are the best the Rosemount team have ever seen.
• The drought restricted yields and moderate temperatures brought concentration and structure to the wines.
• The 2003 red wines under the Rosemount Orange Vineyard label: Shiraz; Cabernet; and Merlot define the potential of this region.

Talk to Rosemount Winemaker, Andrew Koerner, about the 2003 vintage in Orange and his pride and excitement are plain to see. "The red wines are the best I have ever seen from Orange and will provide the outstanding wines of the vintage for Rosemount - and you can quote me on that," said Andrew.

"Orange has always created refined wines with seductive fruit flavours, however the 2003 vintage added concentration and structure to the mix, defining the potential of this region."

The deep, fertile, volcanic, loam soils of Orange maintained moisture throughout the drought but yields were reduced by the cool temperatures experienced during flowering. The low yields and moderate temperatures proved an excellent combination for quality. The February rains were minimal in Orange and helped to invigorate the canopy after the dry conditions.

The Orange vineyards at higher altitudes continued to perform strongly and will provide the core of the eagerly anticipated Rosemount Orange Vineyard trio of red wines. Excitingly, the lower altitude Orange vineyards, now six years old, are starting to fulfil their potential and the quality of this year’s harvest was a significant improvement on 2002.

Shiraz from Orange displays rich fruit, black pepper and precise structure whilst the Cabernet is complex and layered with intensity, structure and persistence of flavour. The 2003 Rosemount Orange Vineyard Merlot will provide an exciting glimpse of this variety’s potential with lifted violet aromatics and intense berry and plum flavours.

Regional New South Wales

• Richly flavoured fruit will be a key blending component in Rosemount Diamond Label wines.
• Tumblong vineyard excelled, providing an exciting glimpse of potential.
• Smoke from the January bushfires tainted fruit from Tumbarumba and Tooma Valley.

The southern and western districts of New South Wales again proved to be a valuable source of fruit for many wines including the Rosemount Diamond label wines.

Not surprisingly, the drought conditions meant that those vineyards with adequate access to supplementary water and a low yielding policy produced the best results. The highlights included Cowra in the Central Tablelands that produced a strong, ripe Chardonnay that will be a valuable component for the 2003 Rosemount Diamond label Chardonnay.

Gundagai and the Upper Hilltops areas in the state’s south produced typically powerful, full-bodied red wines with a distinct eucalypt characteristic that will be a strong blending component in the Rosemount Diamond label Shiraz and Cabernet wines. The Tumblong vineyard, which lies 20kms south-west of Gundagai, is now five years of age and this year produced a parcel of aromatic fruit that is an exciting indicator of the vineyard’s potential.

On a less positive note, the grower vineyards in Tumbarumba and Tooma Valley in the extreme south of New South Wales that typically produce a high quality of cool-climate fruit were this year affected by the January bush fires. Whilst the vineyards survived the fires, their fruit exhibited a smoky characteristic.

Victoria

Bendigo: Central Victoria

• Low yields due to low fruitfulness and dry conditions led to intensely flavoured wines.
• Shiraz is the standout with intense colour and concentrated flavours.

The prevailing dry weather throughout the vintage season kept the Bendigo growers on alert to ensure they maintained sufficient water supply to the vines. As a result of low rainfall and cool conditions in 2002 the fruitfulness of buds was low, resulting in yields being down approximately a third from the previous year. The small crops and good conditions during autumn meant that the vines ripened quickly and without stress, providing an even crop of good quality.

Seppelt Winemaker, Arthur O’Connor, reported, "The Cabernet Sauvignon from the Bendigo area was excellent this vintage but Shiraz is again the star. The vintage produced Shiraz fruit with intense colour, concentrated flavours and fine-grained tannins that will add depth and structure to the 2003 Seppelt Chalambar Shiraz."

Rutherglen: North East Victoria

• A very dry vintage with management of water supplies crucial.
• Muscat was the standout with excellent intensity.
• A parcel from the Wahgunyah vineyard which reached 19° baume is destined for Seppelt GR 113 Rare Muscat.

Rutherglen experienced a vintage similar to that of most of south-eastern Australia with very dry conditions throughout the growing season. In a drought year, where access to water supply was crucial, the well-resourced vineyards contracted to Seppelt reported strong results. Light mid-February rains revitalised the canopy and vintage progressed smoothly.

Seppelt Fortified Winemaker, James Godfrey reported, "Muscat is the standout with excellent intensity of flavour," although yields were reduced. The Tuilleries block around the old Seppelt winery produced fruit of impressive quality, as did the Wahgunyah vineyard with a parcel of Muscat that reached 19° baume destined for Seppelt GR 113 Rare Muscat.

"The combination of moisture-retaining soils and a climate that featured hot, dry days and cool nights allowed the vines to keep maturing the fruit through to incredible levels of ripeness. The result is Rutherglen Muscat and Tokay, unique styles with amazing intensity, complexity and length of flavour."

Grampians: Western Victoria

• Reduced yields of high quality fruit.
• Outstanding results from the Glenlofty vineyard, particularly Chardonnay, Marsanne and Roussanne.
• Shiraz was excellent with bright fruit and rich concentration of flavour - another successful vintage for Seppelt.

The Grampians district in western Victoria historically experiences low rainfall during summer and 2003 was no exception. With dry conditions prevailing, a cool spring was followed by a moderate summer. Rainfall experienced throughout much of south-eastern Australia in mid-February proved to be of little consequence in most vineyards with clear, dry weather following throughout to harvest.

With the crop levels down approximately 30% on the previous vintage, the vines were able to sustain the conditions and ripen the fruit without stress.

Regional Vineyard Manager, Paul Dakis said, "Seppelt’s Glenlofty vineyard, now reaching eight years of age, is beginning to demonstrate its potential to be a key component of Seppelt table wines. The maturity of the vines allowed the vineyard to handle the drought conditions, generally progressing through budburst and veraison without difficulty." Seppelt Winemaker, Arthur O’Connor, was pleased with the aromatic, intensely flavoured Chardonnay destined to be the backbone of the 2003 Seppelt Jaluka Chardonnay. The 2003 vintage saw the first significant crop of Marsanne and Roussanne, demonstrating clear varietal expression coupled with a refined concentration, which bodes well for an exciting first vintage of the Seppelt Marsanne Roussanne.

The mid-February rains did affect the volume of fruit from Seppelt’s hallowed St. Peters vineyard but Arthur O’Connor was extremely pleased with the quality, describing the fruit as, "stunning, with excellent concentration and a rich back palate." Cabernet Sauvignon was also strong in a welcome return, following the difficult 2002 vintage.

"Shiraz from the Grampians is stunning, possessing the best characteristics of a cool year, with a bright, vibrant character and the rich, concentration of flavour found in dry years. It is unusual to get both characteristics in one year and it points to another outstanding Seppelt St. Peters Shiraz."

Strathbogie Ranges, Drumborg-Henty, Pyrenees: Western Victoria and Central Victoria

• Careful management of limited water resources was critical.
• The Strathbogie Ranges produced excellent Riesling, Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon.
• The Seppelt Drumborg vineyard provided an outstanding parcel of Riesling for the Seppelt Special Release label.

Regional Vineyard Manager, Paul Dakis, reported, "the Strathbogie Ranges experienced dry conditions like much of Australia and yields were similarly reduced. Established vineyards, moisture-retaining soils and good water resources allowed the vines to handle the conditions well with mid-February rains revitalising the vineyards before an early and compact vintage which was completed within eight weeks. Strong results for Riesling, Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon will make the Strathbogie Ranges a valuable cool-climate component in the Rosemount Diamond label wines.

Seppelt Table Winemaker, Arthur O’Connor, said, "Drumborg enjoyed a successful vintage in 2003. Temperatures were around average, right towards what we require for ideal ripening and whilst rainfall was reduced, it was not nearly as low as other regions. Yields were low but were in line with Drumborg’s traditionally low crop and quality was excellent. Cool-climate varieties such as Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir all provided valuable parcels with Riesling the standout, pointing towards an excellent 2003 Seppelt Special Release Drumborg Riesling."

The Pyrenees experienced difficult conditions in 2003 with the low rainfall and high temperatures ensuring that careful management of limited water resources was required and yields were significantly reduced.

Yarra Valley: Port Phillip

• A dry but otherwise successful vintage.
• Yields were low but in the range of what is desirable for high quality table wines.
• Chardonnay and Pinot Noir were excellent with rich, ripe flavours.
• Cabernet and Merlot are outstanding, potentially an equal of the 2000 vintage.

Typical of the season, the Yarra Valley experienced a winter, spring and early summer with very little rain. The drought conditions were somewhat alleviated by plentiful supplies of dam water due to low usage during the very cool 2002 vintage. In a welcome return from the somewhat extended 2002 vintage, flowering was extremely even with almost perfect conditions promoting flowering through all varieties within a week.

Summer was warm by Yarra Valley standards, boding well for full-bodied red wines. A single summer day that reached 44° Celsius passed without incident due to careful vineyard management.

Small crops on well-established and managed vineyards ensured that ripening occurred quickly with a generally trouble-free harvest finishing on the 17th of April, some three weeks earlier than 2002. According to Coldstream Hills Winemaker, Andrew Fleming, yields were low but within the range of what is desired for high quality wines.

Amongst the highlights are Chardonnay, described by Andrew as "very strong with excellent aromatics and peach and citrus flavours and Pinot Noir, more generous and forward than the tight, spicy 2002 with deep colours and rich plum and cherry flavours." A parcel from the Briarston vineyard will add intense flavour and elegance to the Coldstream Hills Chardonnay whilst the ‘Amphitheatre’ Block will again lend weight to the Pinot Noir.

Potentially, the standout for the vintage could be the full-bodied red wine varieties, with quality potentially approaching that of the much-lauded 2000 vintage. Andrew believes that the Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot are particularly strong, showing clear, early indications of being of Reserve grade.

"Chardonnay was strong with excellent aromatics and peach and citrus flavours whilst Pinot Noir is generous and forward with rich plum and cherry flavours."

Sunraysia: North West Victoria

• Similar conditions to the Riverland with warm temperatures and dry conditions ensuring low yields and excellent flavour concentrations.
• Chardonnay was again the region’s highlight.

Like the Riverland vineyards further down the Murray, Sunraysia enjoyed a fine result in 2003. Low bunch weights and small berries combined with the very hot and dry conditions to restrict yields. The warm weather during summer was balanced by cool nights and these conditions served to preserve varietal characters and aromatics whilst ensuring ideal crop ripeness.

Lindemans Winemaker, Wayne Falkenberg reported, "Sunraysia is traditionally strong for Chardonnay and 2003 was no exception. The concentration of rich flavours combined with good acid balance will ensure that Sunraysia fruit will be a strong blending component in the Queen Adelaide, Lindemans Cawarra and Rosemount Blended Varietal wines."

Western Australia

Margaret River: South West Australia

• Good rainfall during the growing season and warm summer temperatures promoted excellent growth.
• Fruitfulness was good, assisting vineyards in reaching targeted yields - although yields were still low for quality wine production.
• Cabernet, Chardonnay and Merlot were the highlights with rich flavours, clear fruit definition and ripe tannins.

Margaret River enjoyed rainfall in the 2003 vintage that was the envy of most of the country. The rainfalls throughout the season centred in winter and spring. Regional Vineyard Manager, Simon Robertson said, "Winter was markedly colder than normal, promoting desirable dormancy in the vines. This ensured the vines were in peak condition for the growing season, starting with strong spring growth, good flowering and consistent fruit set, and assisted in the vineyards reaching our deliberately low yield targets."

A warm summer followed with generally good ripening periods. With a southerly position in Margaret River, Devil’s Lair usually experiences one of the latest vintages in the region. Some late rains delayed harvest of red varieties, although warm weather immediately following the rain meant the vines recovered quickly, regaining baume levels within four days and harvest proceeded without incident.

Devil’s Lair Winemaker, Stuart Pym reported, "Cabernet Sauvignon is excellent as usual, with intense cassis and mulberry flavours, fruit definition and ripe tannins. Chardonnay is bright and expressive whilst Merlot shows lifted berry aromas and ripe fruit with good palate volume."

Cool-climate grower vineyards near the inland town of Donnybrook contributed strong parcels of Sauvignon Blanc and Shiraz destined for Devil’s Lair Fifth Leg White and Red wines.
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