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Vintage Reports:
2003 Australian Vintage Report 2001 Australian Vintage Report “It’s a vintage we’ve got out of well, after a poor start,” summed up Winemaker Philip Shaw. In fact, like the eventual outcome, the season started well with little indication of the problems summer was to bring.
Most regions had an excellent start to the season, with good winter and spring rainfall. There was no significant damage from frost or hail, disease pressure was low and by Christmas, vineyard managers were confidently expecting an excellent year.
However, it was as if the weather gods were exercising their sense of humour. January brought an extended period of record heat, often with scorching westerly winds. No region was entirely unscathed and even the Snowy Mountains and Tasmania felt the heat.
Then, in early February, widespread rain spread over New South Wales delaying ripening. By March, the rain changed its attention to southern Victoria and South Australia, relieving pressure upon New South Wales. In some places, it simply delayed picking or freshened up the vines, while elsewhere it caused some damage to the harvest. Western Australia generally avoided the problems of the eastern states.
It was a year, according to Southcorp Wines Group Viticulturist and Grower Liaison Peter Hayes, when conservative vineyard management triumphed over the short-term view. Established vineyards with balanced vines withstood the weather’s onslaught better and ripened their fruit before rain could damage it. Many yielded excellent grapes. Newer vineyards with poorly established root systems or with over-vigorous canopies struggled with the heat stress and over-cropped vines were mostly unable to ripen their volume of grapes.
Generally this was not a great vintage for pinot noir and the aromatic white varieties, such as riesling or sauvignon blanc. Reds fared much better and there are some excellent shiraz and cabernet sauvignon wines from lower cropping vineyards.
“The highlights were in Western Australia, where we’ve got some great reds for the Devil’s Lair and Fifth Leg wines,” comments Philip Shaw. “Generally, it was a stronger year for shiraz and chardonnay than for cabernet, and at the top end we’ve got some excellent wines. There are good semillons, too. Most whites are quite forward, with big, full flavours.”
Penfolds Chief Winemaker John Duval agreed. “Compared to the feeling in the middle of the heatwave, I’m very pleased with the outcome. In particular, we’ve got some excellent Barossa shiraz and the top wines are good in other areas.” South Australia Barossa Valley Riesling provided some
of the highlights of the vintage, with Penfolds Eden Valley Reserve Riesling one
of the stars and even better than the 2000. The reds are the best for several
years, with both cabernet sauvignon and shiraz doing well, so Tollana drinkers
will find their usual quality from the 2001 vintage for TR222 and TR16. The best chardonnay wines are very good indeed, with
flavour and elegance. The reds are some of the best since the 1993 vintage, but
only where the vineyards did not over-crop. “If you made ordinary
reds this year, you have a problem with your vineyard management,” said
Southcorp Red Winemaker Peter Taylor. The Adelaide Hills produced some of the
best pinots of this tricky vintage, and there will again be some delicious
Penfolds Pinot Noirs at the Magill Estate Restaurant and Cellar Door. With reds, it was again
the vines that carried moderate crops which performed well. There are some very
good shiraz wines which are making an important contribution to Lindemans Bin
50, Rosemount Diamond Label, and Queen Adelaide, but cabernet sauvignon vines
were knocked around by the January heatwave and are less impressive.
McLaren Vale The white varieties
ripened quickly and there was some sunburn in whites. Sauvignon blanc was
affected, but semillon fared much better. Rosemount Winemaker Charles Whish
reports that at Ryecroft chardonnay is the pick, with “wonderful peachy flavours
that have developed well on lees.” Unlike some other
varieties Grenache thrives in heat and Charles said the variety was “the best
for three years, so Rosemount GSM will be great.” It was also a strong year for
shiraz, so there will be a characteristically rich Rosemount Balmoral and
Rosemount Show Reserve.
Langhorne Creek Padthaway This was an outstanding
vintage for whites. Chardonnay on Southcorp’s own vineyards responded
brilliantly when yields were controlled. “Absolutely fabulous!” said Winemaker
Phillip Shaw. “Some of the best chardonnay I’ve ever seen from Padthaway and
consistent across the blocks.” With reds, time of
ripening told the story. The vines with moderate yields ripened their fruit
beautifully, and produced excellent cabernet sauvignon and shiraz. “Padthaway
was excellent across the board for Penfolds,” said John Duval, “from St Henri
and Bin 389 right the way down.” Lindemans Padthaway Cabernet Merlot and Shiraz
will also show the great quality of Padthaway when they’re released.
Coonawarra Whites have good flavours, but are perhaps lacking
intensity. The reds fared well, particularly off the lower-cropped vineyards,
with some excellent, fleshy wines at the top end. Others achieved good colours
and tannin levels, with lighter flavour and body. Sue Hodder from Wynns
Coonawarra Estate says that shiraz fortunately developed ripe, fragrant
characters earlier in ripening than usual. She said, “Cabernet sauvignon is soft
and varietal with ripe berry flavours. We have some interesting and complex
parcels of fruit in reserve for both Michael Shiraz and John Riddoch Cabernet
Sauvignon.” Paul Gordon is
enthusiastic about the Lindemans wines. “Cabernet is quite strong. We have the
largest potential make of Lindemans St George for several years and plenty of
Lindemans Pyrus. I think the St George is like the ‘94, (another great year in
Coonawarra).” Limestone Ridge has some very good parcels of shiraz, but the
quantity is less than usual. The heat affected pinot noir vines, but careful
selection found pinot that shows balance and finesse for inclusion in Rosemount
Diamond Label Pinot Noir. Robe
The result was some
well structured and highly coloured shiraz, cabernet sauvignon and merlot.
Shiraz was particularly strong, with the ripe, peppery flavours characteristic
of the region, and will be an important contributor to many of the Penfolds
premium bin reds. White varieties such as Chardonnay are attractive, but show
less intensity than previous years.
New South Wales
Hunter Valley Picking started in
very good weather and early varieties were excellent, particularly semillon and
chardonnay. The semillons are classic, with ripe lemony flavours and none of the
grassy, sauvignon blanc-like characters of some 2000 wines. Shiraz was uneven
and there will be no reserve wines this year, although Lindemans has an
attractive parcel for the Hunter River Shiraz. The Upper Hunter also
had a very good growing season, and escaped most of the vintage rain resulting
in a more consistent result. Semillons are, again, very good. With chardonnays,
Rosemount’s Andrew Koerner reports that the Giants Creek Vineyard was
exceptional, so Rosemount’s Show Reserve Chardonnay is superb. There are some
very good parcels from the Roxburgh Vineyard as well.
Mudgee Whites are attractive,
and chardonnay is probably the best, with good, delicate flavours. Vineyards
that were well managed and ripened early did well, and Rosemount has some
excellent shiraz for Mountain Blue. Andrew Koerner says that Hill of Gold has
made a welcome return to the quality and volume of the 1999 vintage,
particularly with shiraz, which is “soft and elegant.”
Orange Chardonnays are good,
if a little lighter in weight than previous years, and Rosemount’s Orange
Vineyard Chardonnay is very strong. Amongst the reds, merlot was excellent and
there are some good parcels of peppery shiraz, so the Orange Vineyard Merlot and
Shiraz will be worth waiting for. However cabernet sauvignon was less even. Cowra
Tumbarumba Some very good pinot
noir and chardonnay was harvested for sparkling base and chardonnay ripened
further to make excellent wine that is destined for Penfolds highly prized
Yattarna.
Victoria Great
Western and Pyrenees White wines were of
good quality, as was shiraz. “Seppelt’s Great Western Vineyard Shiraz is pretty
good,” said Seppelt winemaker Paul Lapsley. “It has great blackberry and
raspberry flavours, somewhere between the ‘98 and ‘97 in style. And as grower
vineyards are getting older, we’ve seen some strong examples of shiraz for
Seppelt Chalambar.” Yarra
Valley Once again, Coldstream
Hill’s own vineyards survived the conditions better than most growers. The early
fruit from lower cropping vineyards came in well, but rain arrived in March to
hamper the slower ripening blocks. “The Bordeaux reds performed better than the
others,” said Coldstream Hills winemaker Andrew Fleming, “and merlot came
through with spectacular results.” Overall, the whites
were less exciting, although the Coldstream Hills Sauvignon Blanc was an
exception, proving to be the best sauvignon this year across all regions. There
was good chardonnay from Coldstream Hills’ own vineyards, which is earmarked for
a small make of Coldstream Hills Reserve Chardonnay. Pinot noir suffered in the
heat and shows big, riper fruit characters this year. There will be no
Coldstream Hills Reserve Pinot Noir this year.
Mornington Peninsula
Strathbogie Ranges Drumborg
The fruit intensity of
riesling and sauvignon blanc suffered in the heat. Pinot noir was also affected,
and there will be no Drumborg Vineyard Pinot Noir or Drumborg Cabernet for
Seppelt this year but there will be a good quantity of pinot for Seppelt Sunday
Creek.
Rutherglen The reds are of fair
quality, but the heat affected colour and depth of flavour and some vines still
overcropped. However, good weather late in the season led to some good
fortifieds. Tokay was the star, according to Company Fortified Winemaker James
Godfrey, while the muscats, like most aromatic varieties, lost fruit during the
heat.
Sunraysia Whites generally did better than reds. Semillon from the
Lake Cullulleraine Vineyard is again excellent and will add great quality to
several Semillon Chardonnay blends. It is pleasing, and rare, to see a vineyard
continually producing such quality at low cost. Red varieties matured early, and
tended to show ripe, jammy flavours. Southcorp Wines vineyards set up for
irrigation on demand tended to perform better than others.
Western
Australia
Margaret River Stuart Pym at Devil’s
Lair describes 2001 as an “excellent red year, with strong structures and great
intensity,” likening the wines to the ‘99s and ‘95s. Expect a good quantity of
high quality Devil’s Lair Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon. Chardonnay was also
very good. Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc were strong but without the great
quality of the others. Merlot is Stuart’s pick, showing “great aroma and
substance.” There will be a good quantity of Fifth Leg Red and White this year,
and even better quality. |
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